Não foi amor à primeira vista. A cidade me ganhou aos poucos. Agora quero morar alguns meses lá.
Na primeira vez que fui, tinha cinco anos e me lembro de comer boas crepes, chupar um pirulito ENORME lembrando a torre (que minha mãe me obrigou a guardar todos os dias já que comprei) e brincar no jardim de Tuileries com meu pai com um brinquedo que era um pássaro de plástico de borracha.
Voltei no estilo “mochilão” aos 19 anos e me apaixonei por croissant aux amandes, passei por lá na lua de mel, mas dessa última vez me apaixonei!
O astral
Passear pela cidade observando pessoas elegantes, fuçar as pâtisseries lindas com delicadas tarteletes, refinados macarons e indiscutíveis pains au chocolat é por si só uma opção de vida.
A mesa é uma tradição. Sentar-se com calma, comer bem, conversar, tomar um vinho… sem pressa nem correria é sábio. A relação da reverência às refeições é inegável.
Confesso que isso só agrega ao fato de que os queijos de cabra, primordialmente, patês, tartares e sopas de cebola são incomparavelmente melhores do que em qualquer lugar do mundo!
Compramos queijinhos do produtor em uma feira, um vinhozinho no supermercado, e um pãozinho na boulangerie e pronto! De três estrelas para cima com orçamento menos de R$ 50,00 por duas pessoas.
Os parisienses também estão mais simpáticos. Tirando um moço no metro, fomos excepcionalmente atendidos e a maior parte pelo menos fala um “obrigado” ao final. Nota-se o esforço em tratar bem quem vem visitar.
Museus e Parques
Voltar ao Louvre com as crianças foi um barato. Queriam tirar foto de cada peça. E quando dizíamos que era para guardar a bateria da câmera para coisas especiais respondiam “mas isso aqui é incrível, olha só!!!”
O Musée D’Orsay para mim foi meu preferido. Peças impressionistas em uma estrutura que por si só é uma obra de arte. Tire uma tarde, pare no café do quinto andar (estiloso!) e termine ouvindo músicos que tocam na rua em frente ao museu (dependendo do dia e do tempo).
A visita ao Chateaux de Vincennes foi uma maravilha! As crianças se divertiram no castelo medieval, com ponte levadiça e tudo que pode imaginar a partir dos filmes. A lojinha, então… dá vontade de levar tudo!
Se for ficar uma semana, compre o Navigot semanal que vale de segunda a domingo (seguidos). Auxilia no transporte sem limites pela cidade. O metrô realmente é extremamente abrangente e funciona.
Indo com crianças, a Eurodisney é um must. Tire dois dias pelo menos para visitar os parques. O parque do Obelix e Asterix dizem que é o máximo também, mas no frio não é tão recomendável.
Há também a praça des Vosges que as crianças adoraram brincar. É uma pracinha como qualquer outra, mas os brinquedos são todos estilizados e ao redor tem várias coisas gostosas….
Marais
O bairro da Place Des Vosges é uma delícia.
Fomos duas vezes provar um dos tartares mais tradicionais da Cidade do Ma Borgogne.
Restaurante pequeno e aconchegante, desde 1800 e poucos. Se não houver espaço dentro, pode ficar de fora que o aquecimento funciona. As crianças adoraram o frango assado com batata fritas também.
Terminado o almoço, visite a loja de chás Damman que é o paraíso de quem curte. Uma viagem de aromas e sabores.
Por fim, vá ao Carréte. Fantásticos macarons (exceto o de doce de leite que achei meio enjoativo) e doces em geral. O croissant aux amandes estava muito saboroso e molhadinho, podia só estar mais fresquinho e crocante.
Au pied de Couchon
Um dos lugares pop da cidade, o restaurante vive cheio e é bonito.
Fomos bem atendidos e provei a sopa de cebola que é considerada a melhor da cidade. Achei o queijo fantástico, mas a sopa em si faltou um je ne sais quoi.
As crianças dividiram um prato de salmão excelente.
O pé de porco, entretanto, decepcionou. Gordura demais, carne de menos.
Resultado: belo, bom, mas não barato e falhou na pièce de resistance.
Les Deux Magots
Casa tradicional e perfeita para um brunch.
Croque Messieurs elegantíssimos e uma omelete sensacional. O Petit Chablis da casa também vai bem com tudo. Adorei!
Café Breizh
Queres provar galettes (crépe de trigo sarraceno) super refinadas e diferentes? Essa casa com filiais até no Japão é uma boa.
Comi um de arenque com caviar inimaginável!
De sobremesa: Crepe suzette ou com caramelo.
A bebida da casa é a Cidra. Mas achei mais bonita do que gostosa.
Por fim, pedimos o prato de frutos do mar e estava uma delícia.
Conclua sua viagem jantando perto e olhando, a partir do Trocadero a hora que a torre se ilumina. É emocionante.
Jantamos no Le Beaujolais na Av. Suffren. Lugarzinho que é turístico, mas a comida estava gostosa a beça, as crianças (de todas as idades) adoraram as escolhas e saímos de lá felizes da vida. Volto lá com certeza para jantar e depois passear pela torre.
PS.: achei uma furada subir a torre. Horas em pé. Fila enorme. Mas, se estiver com disponibilidade tenho que confessar que a vista é bela e um champanhe lá no alto (tem um bar de champanhe) não é uma má ideia….
Conclusão
Enfim, se não gostar de paris, insista. Ela que ainda não deve ter de conquistado ainda…. mas irá!
Leitura emocionante, enche os olhos de lágrimas… me senti na frança por alguns minutos.
Servirá de guia para minha viagem a Paris… a esposa irá adorar…
Fiquei imaginando fazer uma viagem acompanhada com você e a família… aí sim a viagem ficaria completa.
Parabéns pelo lindo texto…
Beijos
Obrigada Carlos!!!
O seu lindo texto tem a capacidade de nos transportar para a bela Paris que visitamos um dia e agora conseguimos reviver aquelas mesmas emoções através das suas descrições!
Se já te admirava antes, passei a admirá-la mais ainda!
Obrigado por nos fazer reviver tantas emoções com esse delicioso texto sobre a cidade luz!
Múcio Abreu
Obrigada querido!
Além da elegância peculiar, a beleza inegável o que mais me encanta nos Franceses é a capacidade de entender e internalizar a grandeza de uma refeição rodeada por sabores fantásticos e amores em pessoas. A congregação que uma mesa é capaz de realizar é algo absolutamente divino.
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